On the shore of the Nile River in central Egypt lie the ruins of ancient Thebes, amidst the modern city of Luxor. Reminders of Thebes' most influential times as the capital of the Egyptian Empire can be found throughout Luxor, earning the city its nickname of the "world's largest open-air museum" and allowing visitors a glimpse into the legacy of the pharaohs.

Good to Know:

• Luxor's high season lasts from October through April when temperatures are milder than in the summer months. Try to avoid the peak tourism months of December and January, for smaller crowds and shorter wait times.
• Fly into Cairo and take the bus, plane, or the (sleeper) train to Luxor. While the train trip takes 12 hours, first-class tickets cost only around 10 € and are worth the upgrade. 
• When you are not currently exploring ancient Egyptian burial sites or enormous temples, try taking a hot air balloon ride over Luxor or enjoy the view from the river on a traditional felucca boat ride.

Highlights

The East Bank:

Just north of Luxor, in the town of the same name, lies the enormous Karnak Temple Complex, encompassing multiple temples of the Middle and New Kingdoms. For around 2000 years, reigning Pharaohs have added, amended, or replaced parts of the temple complex to form what is now a patchwork representation of Egyptian history. You enter Karnak through the First Pylon. While never finished, its towers rise 43 m (141 ft) into the skies, setting the stage for what's to come. The central compound of Karnak is the Great Temple of Amun, which covers an area of about 25 km² (10 miles²) making it also the largest site within the complex. The focal point of the Great Temple of Amun is the Great Hypostyle Hall. Constructed in the 13th century BC, the Great Hypostyle Hall consists of 134 colossal columns that once carried the roof of the hall and is covered in colorful reliefs. The largest of the columns stand in the two central rows, dominating the hall with their 10 m (33 ft) circumference and 24 m (79 ft) height. Each evening, after closing, the Sound and Light Show offers an additional experience, that should not be missed. Visitors are guided through parts of the complex, which are colorfully illuminated while learning about ancient Egyptian history and mythology. Interestingly, the Karnak Temple Complex and Luxor are connected by the 2.7 km (1.7 miles) long Avenue of the Sphinxes, once the site of the annual Opet festival procession. The restored avenue, and the sphinxes lining it, can best be seen in front of the Karnak Temple Complex, leading up to the First Pylon. On the other end of the avenue lies Luxor Temple. After the procession down the Avenue of Sphinxes, the Opet Festival was held at Luxor Temple, where the reigning pharaoh and their godly soul were brought together, manifesting their role as divine leader. As with Karnak, you enter the temple through a large Pylon, guarded by two massive statues of a seated Pharaoh Ramses II, who largely contributed to the temple during his reign more than 3000 years ago. The gate used to be marked by two granite obelisks, one of which can be still seen in front of the temple, the other in Paris at the Place de la Concorde. Inside lie various smaller chapels dedicated to the worship of several gods and goddesses, along with large halls decorated with further tall statues of Ramses II. Most interestingly, the Mosque of Abu el-Haggag is also integrated into the temple. First erected in 395 AD as a Coptic church, the building was restructured into a mosque in 640 AD, giving the temple a full 3400 years of continuous religious use. While Luxor is far smaller than Karnak, it is certainly no less worth visiting. Return to the temple after dark to watch it stunningly light up in warm light, adding to the mythical atmosphere surrounding it.

The West Bank:

Most of Luxor's archeological sites lie in the Theban Necropolis on the west bank of the Nile, away from the bustle of the city. The necropolis is made up of over 415 tombs and mortuary temples of royals and nobles. On your way out of the city and into the desert valleys, you'll pass by The Colossi of Memnon, 3400-year-old stone statues of Pharaoh Amenhotep III marking the entrance of his mortuary temple. With a height of 18 m (59 ft), the statues tower over their onlookers and command their respect. Deeper into the desert lie the royal burying sites of the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens, the final resting places of 63 Pharaohs from the 18th, 19th and 20th dynasties (1550 BC to 1070 BC), including that of Tutankhamun. Try to visit as many tomb sites as you possibly can, but if you have to narrow it down, choose between the tombs of Tutankhamun, Seti I, and Queen Nefertari. While the riches that were buried alongside Tutankhamun have mostly all been moved to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, what remains in his tomb still gives great inside into the wealth of the Pharaohs. Climb down the 16 steps into the main chamber of the gravesite and find King Tut's sarcophagus in the center of the intricately decorated room. The tomb of Seti I is the largest within the Valley of the Kings. The walls of the 137 m (450 ft) long tomb are covered in colorful ancient reliefs, depicting scenes from Egyptian mythology. Even though his sarcophagus is no longer inside, the sheer size of the tomb alone is enough for an unforgettable visit. The most magnificent tomb in both the valleys, however, belongs to Queen Nefertari. As the favorite wife of Pharaoh Ramses II, her tomb is covered in murals and carvings, showing both mythical scenes and apparent scenes from Nefertari's life. Because visitors are not allowed to stay longer than about 10 minutes inside the tomb, Nefertari's grave is among the best-preserved and most valued in the valleys. If you can only see one tomb site, this should be it. Despite the grandeur of these gravesites, the highlight of the Theban Necropolis is not found in either valley. The Mortuary Temple of Queen Hatshepsut takes the crown in both size and beauty. With a backdrop of limestone cliffs rising out of the desert floor, just the walk toward the three-story building is breathtaking. Constructed under the Queen's reign, the temple is often viewed as one of the greatest ancient architectural achievements.

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